Latin Name: Zamioculcas zamiifolia Common Names: ZZ Plant, Eternity Plant, Zanzibar Gem, Aroid Palm Family: Araceae Genus: Zamioculcas Native To: Eastern Africa Growth Habit: Upright stems growing from underground rhizomes; bushy, slow-growing, and drought tolerant Toxicity: Toxic to pets and people if ingested. Wash hands after handling.
Most of what you need to know about a ZZ plant is hiding underground. If you've struggled with other houseplants and walked away feeling like it's just not your thing, a ZZ might be the one that changes your mind — it's one of the most forgiving plants you can bring home.
That said, "low maintenance" doesn't mean "no maintenance." Understanding why this plant is so hardy is what makes the difference between one that survives and one that actually thrives. And it all comes down to one structure hiding below the soil: the rhizome.
Rhizomes: The Key to Understanding Your ZZ Plant
If you only read one section of this guide, make it this one. Almost everything about ZZ care — how often to water, how to know when something's wrong, why the plant survives when others don't — traces back to a single thing happening below the soil.
ZZ plants grow from thick, potato-like structures called rhizomes. These are a modified form of stem that grows horizontally underground, storing water and nutrients and sending up new growth. Think of them as the plant's savings account: they hold reserves the plant draws on during dry periods, which is why ZZ plants can go weeks — sometimes months — without water and still look fine.
Here's what that means for care: a ZZ that looks like it's doing nothing above the soil may be quietly building reserves below it. New stems emerge directly from rhizomes, which is why ZZ growth comes up from the soil line rather than branching off existing stems. Each new stem unfurls as a complete unit with all its leaves already formed.
Sometimes you'll see rhizomes peeking above the soil line — that's perfectly normal. If they start to shrivel, that's a reliable sign your plant is ready for a thorough watering. The reserves are running low.
Once you understand that the rhizome is doing the heavy lifting, everything else about ZZ care makes sense. Overwatering is the main risk because the plant already has water stored. Slow growth is normal because the plant is conservative by design. And repotting isn't urgent because the root system is compact and efficient.
General Care
How Much Light Does a ZZ Plant Need?
If there's one thing that makes a ZZ different from most houseplants, it's genuine low-light tolerance. This plant can hold its own in spaces where most tropicals would slowly decline.
But there's an important difference between surviving in low light and growing in it. In low light, your ZZ will stay alive, but you won't see much new growth. The stems it does push out may be leggier, with more space between leaves. That's not damage — it's the plant reaching for what it can get.
The best conditions for a ZZ are bright, indirect or diffused light. East-facing windows are ideal. West or south-facing windows work well too, as long as the plant is set back a bit or behind a sheer curtain. Direct sun — especially afternoon sun in summer — can scorch the leaves, particularly if the plant hasn't been gradually acclimated to it.
If you're in an older Hamilton home with smaller or north-facing windows, a ZZ is actually one of the best choices for those rooms. It won't grow fast, but it'll hold its own in ways that most tropicals can't.
One thing that helps regardless of your light situation: dust the leaves periodically. ZZ leaves are naturally glossy, and a layer of dust blocks the light the plant is working hard to use. A damp cloth is all you need.
Soil and Watering
With ZZ plants, the soil mix matters more than the watering schedule — because the soil determines how long moisture stays around the roots, and ZZ roots do not want to sit in wet soil.
A good base mix is coco coir, perlite, and earthworm castings — the same peat-free foundation we recommend for Monsteras and most of our tropical aroids. Adding orchid bark or coco mulch gives you extra drainage and airflow, which is exactly what this root system needs. If you're repotting a ZZ that came in a dense, moisture-heavy mix, swapping it into something airier can make a noticeable difference in how the plant responds.
For watering, the rule is simple: let the soil dry out completely between waterings, then water thoroughly and let it drain. Finger to first knuckle — if there's any moisture at all, leave it. The rhizomes are already holding water for the plant, so it can go longer between drinks than you might expect.
The most common mistake people make with ZZ plants isn't giving too much water at once — it's watering too frequently. A thorough soak followed by a real dry period is much healthier than small, frequent sips that keep the soil constantly damp.
How Often Should I Fertilize a ZZ Plant?
ZZ plants are not heavy feeders. Their rhizomes store nutrients efficiently, and the plant grows slowly by design — it genuinely doesn't need much.
A diluted dose of a gentle, organic fertilizer once during the growing season (spring or summer) is plenty. If you're using a liquid kelp fertilizer like Kelpy, a light dose in late spring when the plant is pushing new growth is a good time. Fertilizer isn't food — plants eat light through photosynthesis. Fertilizer is more like a multivitamin: it supplements what the soil provides, but the plant isn't depending on it for energy. If you want to understand how fertilizer actually works — and why it isn't plant food — we wrote a whole post about that.
If you'd rather skip liquid fertilizer altogether, adding soil amendments like earthworm castings or bone meal when you repot is another way to go. These break down slowly and provide a steady, gentle nutrient supply without any risk of overdoing it.
Humidity and Temperature
Good news: ZZ plants don't need any humidity help. Average household air is fine — no humidifier, no pebble tray, no misting required. If your home is comfortable for you, it's comfortable for a ZZ.
Temperature-wise, they prefer the range most of us keep our homes at — roughly 15–27°C (60–80°F). The main thing to watch for is cold drafts. If your ZZ is near a front door or a drafty window in winter, the cold air can stress the plant. Just pull it back from any cold-air entry points and it'll be fine.
When Should I Repot My ZZ Plant?
ZZ plants actually like being snug in their pots — they do better slightly rootbound than swimming in extra soil, which holds moisture the plant doesn't need.
Once you notice the root ball has noticeably more roots than soil, or you see roots and rhizomes pressing against the pot walls, it's time to consider a repot. Give the pot a few gentle squeezes to loosen things up. If the roots are very crowded, you can soak the root ball in water to help release it, but don't try to pull roots apart aggressively.
Healthy ZZ roots are chunky and off-white, and you'll see rhizomes (the potato-like structures) mixed in. If anything looks dark, mushy, or smells off, trim it away with a clean pair of shears.
Choose a new pot that's about one inch larger than the current root ball — no more. A pot that's too large holds more soil moisture than the roots can use, which puts you right back into overwatering territory. Fill the open spaces with your well-draining soil mix and you're set.
If you're not sure whether it's time — or you pull the plant out and aren't sure what you're looking at — that's exactly what Doctor's Appointments are for. Bring the plant in and we'll walk through it with you.
How to Propagate a ZZ Plant
ZZ plants can be propagated a few different ways, and all of them work — they just move at very different speeds.
Division is the fastest and most reliable method. When you repot, if the plant has multiple stems growing from separate rhizome clusters, you can gently separate them and pot each one independently. Each division needs at least one healthy rhizome and a few stems to give it the best start.
Stem cuttings are straightforward too. Cut a healthy stem at the base, place it in water or moist soil, and wait. The stem will eventually develop its own rhizome and root system. This takes longer than division — sometimes a few months — but it works.
Leaf cuttings are the slow-motion option. You can place individual leaves (with a small section of stem) into moist soil and they will eventually develop a tiny rhizome at the base. This method can take six months or more, but there's something satisfying about watching it happen. It's a good option if you're patient and curious, or if you don't want to disturb the main plant.
For all methods, spring and summer give you the best results. If you're dividing in April or May, the plant has a whole Hamilton summer ahead of it to settle in and build new roots before things slow down again in fall.
What's Normal (Don't Panic)
ZZ plants do some things that can look alarming if you're not expecting them, but are actually just part of how this plant operates.
Slow growth is normal. ZZ plants are not fast growers, and that's not a sign that something is wrong. In lower light, they may go months without visible new growth. That's the plant conserving energy — not struggling.
Occasional lower leaf yellowing is normal. As the plant puts energy into new stems, older leaves near the base may yellow and drop. This is the plant reallocating its resources, not a sign of overwatering (though if many leaves are yellowing at once, that's a different conversation — see below).
New growth looks different. New ZZ stems emerge as tightly rolled shoots from the soil and unfurl over a period of days or weeks. The new leaves will be lighter green and will darken over time. This is normal development, not a nutrient deficiency.
Rhizomes visible above the soil are not a problem. As rhizomes grow and multiply, some may push above the soil line. That's fine — they don't need to be buried.
Common Problems
Yellowing Leaves
This is the most common ZZ plant concern, and it's almost always a watering issue.
ZZ plants can store water for extended periods thanks to their rhizomes, so they should only be watered when the soil has dried out completely. If you're watering on a schedule — stop. Instead, check the soil on a schedule. Stick your finger as deep into the soil as you can. If there's any moisture at all, leave it alone. The rhizomes are doing their job.
If multiple leaves are yellowing at once, especially on different stems, that's a stronger signal that the soil is staying too wet for too long. Check your soil mix (is it dense and moisture-retentive?) and your pot (does it have drainage?). Both of those factors matter as much as watering frequency.
Rotting Rhizomes
Rhizomes that are mushy, dark, or smell off have rotted — a sign of too much moisture around the roots, either from watering too frequently or from soil that isn't draining well enough.
The fix starts with the soil. If your ZZ is in a dense, water-retentive mix, switch to something chunkier: coco coir, perlite, orchid bark, and coco mulch will give you the drainage and airflow this plant needs. Then adjust your watering rhythm — let the soil dry fully between waterings and give a thorough soak when you do water, allowing it to drain completely.
If you've found rot, trim away anything that's mushy or discoloured with clean shears, let the healthy rhizomes air dry for a few hours, and repot into fresh, well-draining mix. The plant may take a while to bounce back, but ZZ plants are resilient — if there's healthy rhizome left, there's a good chance it'll recover.
Leggy Growth — Long Gaps Between Leaves on a Stem
Leggy ZZ growth is almost always a light issue. The stem keeps growing, but without enough light energy, it spaces the leaves further apart rather than producing them close together.
Moving your ZZ to a brighter spot will help future growth come in more compactly. The leggy stems won't fill in (what's grown is grown), but new stems that emerge should look healthier. Dusting leaves periodically also helps the plant make the most of whatever light it's getting.
If you're in a space where more light isn't an option, the plant will still live — it'll just grow slowly and a bit sparse. That's a trade-off, not a failure.
Brown Leaf Edges
Brown, crispy edges on ZZ leaves are most commonly a dry-air issue — especially during Ontario's heating season, when indoor humidity can drop significantly.
Other possibilities include inconsistent watering (long dry spells followed by a drench can stress leaf edges), direct sun exposure, or mineral buildup from hard water or over-fertilizing. Start with the most likely cause for your situation and adjust from there.
Leaf Discolouration — Pale or Washed-Out Leaves
If ZZ leaves are going pale green, losing their deep colour, or looking almost washed out, there are two things to check.
First, light. If the plant is in a very bright spot with direct sun exposure, the fading may be mild sun stress. Move it back from the window or add a sheer curtain.
Second, nitrogen. If the plant is in lower light and the leaves are gradually losing their rich green, it may not be photosynthesizing efficiently and could benefit from a nitrogen-containing fertilizer — something gentle and organic to avoid stressing the plant further. A diluted liquid kelp or fish-based fertilizer applied once during the growing season can help. If you're not sure what's going on, bring the plant in for a Doctor's Appointment and we'll take a look together.
Popular Varieties
Most ZZ plants sold are the classic Zamioculcas zamiifolia — deep green, glossy, and predictable. But a few cultivars have become popular and are worth knowing about, because their care needs differ slightly.
Raven ZZ (Zamioculcas zamiifolia 'Dowon')
Raven ZZ is the dramatic one. New leaves emerge a bright lime green and gradually darken to near-black as they mature. It's striking — and the colour shift is normal, not a problem. Care is essentially the same as the standard ZZ, but Raven tends to show light stress a bit faster. Keep it in bright indirect light for the best colour development, and avoid direct sun, which can fade the dark foliage.
Zenzi ZZ (Zamioculcas zamiifolia 'Zenzi')
Zenzi is a compact, dwarf variety with tightly clustered, slightly curled leaves and shorter stems. It stays small, which makes it a great option for desks, shelves, or tighter spaces. Watering needs are the same — let it dry fully — but because the pot is typically smaller, it may dry out a bit faster than a standard ZZ in a larger pot. Watch for that, especially in summer.
Variegated ZZ
Variegated ZZ plants show irregular patches of cream or yellow on the leaves. They're less common and tend to be slower-growing than the standard form, because the variegated portions contain less chlorophyll and produce less energy. They need brighter indirect light than a standard ZZ to compensate, and they're a little less forgiving overall — but the care principles are the same.
Seasonal Notes for Hamilton
ZZ plants are low-demand year-round, but there are a few seasonal shifts worth knowing about if you're growing one here.
Winter (November–March): Light levels drop significantly, and heated indoor air dries things out. Your ZZ will slow down — possibly producing no new growth at all — and will need much less water. Once a month or less is common. Keep the plant away from cold drafts near doors and windows, and don't stress about the lack of growth. The rhizomes are holding steady.
Spring (April–May): As daylight increases, you may see new stems starting to push up from the soil. This is the best time to repot if needed, fertilize lightly, or take divisions for propagation. The plant is waking up and has the energy to invest in recovery and new root growth.
Summer (June–August): Peak growing season. The plant will use more water than in winter, but "more" for a ZZ still means letting the soil dry fully between waterings. If the plant is near a south or west window, watch for direct afternoon sun — it's stronger than you might expect.
Fall (September–October): Growth slows as light decreases. Start stretching out your watering intervals and skip fertilizer until spring. This is the plant winding down, not declining.
Have a ZZ plant question we didn't cover? Bring it into the shop — or book a Doctor's Appointment and we'll figure it out together. Pinch Bakery & Plant Shop, 183 Sherman Ave N, Hamilton.